When innovation meets practicality, you get the Edelrid Ohmega. An assisted‑braking belay device that’s compact, powerful, and impressively versatile. Whether you’re at the climbing gym, crag, or taking on alpine sport routes, the Ohmega elevates safety and comfort for both climber and belayer.
Lightweight & Unobtrusive
Weighing in at just 170–190 g, the Ohmega is barely noticeable in your pack or on your harness—until you need it.
Dynamic Brake Assistance
Equipped with a spring‑loaded cam system, the Ohmega actively engages during a fall to slow the rope and reduce upward force on the belayer—even when the climber falls directly onto the device.
Adjustable Friction for Any Pairing
A simple lever on the Dyneema® sling lets you select from three braking levels (approx. +10 kg, +20 kg, +30 kg), so you can fine-tune performance based on any weight disparity between partners.
Smooth Clipping, Less Rope Drag
Unlike older assisted‑braking devices, the Ohmega includes an integrated pulley to reduce rope friction at the first bolt. This translates to smoother rope management and effortless clipping—even on long, twisting pitches.
Loved Across the Community
Climbing leader Tommy Caldwell praised its ingenuity, explaining that it “reduces both rope drag … and the load created by weight differences” and called it “one of the most ingenious products to hit the market.” A recent review even hailed it as an “absolute game‑changer,” especially for climber-belayer duos with significant weight differences.
Why the Ohmega Deserves Its Place in Your Rack
Feature |
Benefit |
Featherweight & compact |
Easy to carry and bond with your gear setup. |
Active braking system |
Delivers soft, controlled catches—even in awkward falls. |
Three adjustable levels |
Fine-tune assistance to your specific partner pairing. |
Pulley integration |
Enhances clipping flow and reduces rope drag on long routes. |
Wide applicability |
Trusted by beginners, pros, and elite climbers alike. |
The Edelrid Ohmega isn’t just another piece of gear, it’s a thoughtful tool that redefines belaying. It brings together safety, adaptability, and ease of use in one lightweight package. For anyone climbing with weight disparities, enduring long multi-pitch routes, or just craving smoother belay dynamics, this is the device to try.
SHOP the Edelrid Ohmega HERE
By - Matt Eaton
For more info check out this video from Edelrid...