La Sportiva Genius

Finally a 'No-Edge' shoe that fits me! Yew! Got my feet in some Geniuses a few weeks back, first took them to the gym and then got them out to the mountains for some testing. I'm a big fan of the Sportiva Testarossa not only because of its fit, but for how flexible and sensitive it is for an aggressive shoe. These three things are mimicked in the Genius. The fit is not overly narrow like the Solution or Python, the P3 platform gives great flexibility in the shoe so you can still get a small smear even in a downturned shoe, and it's sensitive enough to feel every little lump and bump (or lack of).

Now to the 'No-Edge' - I had to say, like most peeps that heard about it a few years ago with the Speedstar, I was skeptical. But I tested them out back then and they did convince me that there was some merit to it. I have a lot of faith in the brand La Sportiva because they are arguably the best climbing shoe brand in the universe! both in rock and mountaineering. So when they consecutively brought out their three top-end climbing shoes in 'No-Edge', I thought "okay, fine, I'll give it a go". All I can say at the moment is that with the three days of climbing I've had in them, it hasn't been my shoes that have let me down. In fact, my feet haven't slipped once. So.... I think I'm being converted. Give me a good six months and I'll let you know if I'm a long term believer. I am interested in how they are going to wear, being that the rubber is supper sticky and soft but there is no edge to wear thin (where all climbing shoes give out first).

Pros

• Sticky Sticky Sticky
• Grippy Grippy Grippy
• Last suites a wide range of different feet
• Flexible and sensitive
• Smooth inner

Cons

• No edge... How the hell do I climb at Shipley with these?*
  *To be thorough, I did take them to Shipley and they go just fine.

Final Result

If you have been a fan of the Solution, Testarossa or Miura VS and want something same same but different, try the Genius. If you fit any of these shoes you will fit the Genius and it is a grippy a shoe as you will get.

Matt Eaton

Likes Sunbrellas